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[paule.schneider]

Hi everyone,

I am Paul from Germany and I do woodworking as a hobby. Now I want to build two lounge chairs, which require some upholstery with springs/webbing and cushions. It seems there are no german message boards, so this one it is .

In doing research I have not found the all the information I need to actually make a decision on how to construct the chairs. It is time to ask some experienced people.

What I have in mind is a design similar to this chairs: and https://foureyes.podia.com/glenn-lc-project
I do not like a solid base with just a cushion as in the original plans, but rather would like some more spinginess and contour when sitting. So I want to add webbing or zig zag springs, but I am not sure how it can be done.

From what I understand right the options are:

1. elasticated webbing
The easiest way I guess. Fixing with staples is possible without changing the design.
What elasticity would I use for the seat and the back?

2. rubber (pirelli) webbing
I do not see any problem right now. The attachement with clips is possible even with the low profile seat frame, but might be a little more complex than option 1.

3. zig zag springs
I guess these would be my favorite with regards to comfort and longevity, but they present a problem with the design of the chair, when the design is not to be butchered.
How much height does the frame have to have for the springs to work? Are there any low profile construction methods that would work? Of course it would look ridiculous if the cushion sits proud due to the springs.


Hope you can help me with the questions or clear up any misunderstandings.

Best regards
Paul

[JimmieJoe]

Anything with elastic in it will need to be replace in the future. Low quality webbing does not last and usually fails in less than 10 years, usually in only 3 years.

The springs will last much longer than elastic, provided the clips are anchored properly to a proper piece of hardwood. Otherwise you get clip failure or frame failure at the frame.

[paule.schneider]

So the question is, how to construct the chair for a low profile using zig zag springs when the cushion just lies on top?

[Mike]

The chair was not designed to use springs. And you stated the desire not to "butcher" the design, so the short answer is that it cannot be done properly with the current design. Elastic webbing is a maybe, assuming you can do minimal design changes to allow for a lip to staple into (or staple into the flat top of the frame), and that the exterior frame is strong enough to support the weight of a person. You would, of course, see the webbing, so that would change the overall look of the chair. I think you need to do more chair design research and see how others have built similar chairs.

[paule.schneider]

any recommendations where to start? seems like very specialized knowledge

[Old Canuck]

So the question is, how to construct the chair for a low profile using zig zag springs when the cushion just lies on top?

Hi Paul. Darren here from Canada. I just joined the board and have a couple of suggestions for you;

Go to your local furniture store etc.. and look at glider rockers. That is how these seats are done.

Personally, I would build it more like a drawer instead of a cutting board. Maybe 5-6 cm high (2:) out of 25 mm thick (1in) stock.

If you want to stay with the thin look I would go with minimum 25 mm thickness if not 30. The front and back rails should be (2X the length of the spring clip) wide minimum and full width of the chair. That way the springs are pulling your joint together instead of straining the joint at the sides.

The tension from the springs will want to twist the front and back rails inward at the top so use large dowels or/or maybe a steel plate reinforcing the bottom of those joints. Route out only where the clips will be to leave as much meat at the joints as possible. With the clips I get here in Canada I would go down 6-10mm (1/4-3/8 in.) and back until the furthest edge of the spring is flush with the inside of the frame.

Pull your springs down a little tighter than normal. Instead of 20-25 cm of arc pull them down to 10-15mm .About half the usual arc.

I like to just back staple my decking and let the other three sides float to allow for spring movement. that is just me, others will disagree I am sure.

Hope my two cents helps.

Darren

[paule.schneider]

Hi Darren,

I wanna keep the overall look, not necessarily the suggested construction of the chair. In woodworking I know what changes have what effect and how to tackle that. There are lot of details one can play with, if the principles are understood. For woodworking thats the case, for upholstery not yet. Your post gives some valuable information there.

The drawer design might be a little hefty, but a frame with 30-40mm thickness will still look good (there still is time to also up the thickness on all the other parts to fit the overall proportions). With floating tenons at the miters it will be plenty strong. For the seat, if build with springs, one can get rid of the slats as well.

I am still worried about a gap that might occur between frame and cushion if springs are used. Now you already wrote, the arc height can be reduced by around half. Is that enough for no gap? Can (the rest be mitigated in the cushion construction? If so, how?

[Old Canuck]

HI Paul. Awesome job with graphics. You are a little out of scale though. With the ends of the springs recessed into the frame the top of the crown should be flush with the top of the frame.

You may need to squeeze the loops of the spring together a bit with pliers ( I like to use channel locks) to get your crown just right.

The crown of the cushion can also cause a bit of a gap, even on a flat board. You can reduce that by making your border a little wider. I normally make my border 12mm (1/2 inch) narrower than my foam. [4in foam I cut 4 1/2. 2X seam allowance = finishes 3 1/2]. If you have your border finish the thickness of your foam you will have very little crown. NOTE, depending on fabric-you may need to cut your top and bottom a little smaller to keep your cushion from being loose.

Adding a welt can also fill that gap.