Connect with your social network account

[Susy]

1550077991070-404580365.jpg (232.42 KiB) Viewed 15287 times

I'm new here and am looking for input.
If this should be more than one thread please let me know.
I have done contract upholstery work for 15 years. In the dentistry, marine and automotive industry. I have recently gone 100% on my own.
I have a job that is completely out of my comfort zone and requires me to learn....I love it.
I have been asked to wrap the door panels on a 2011 ford ranger.
I am asking for your help to lower my learning curve.
The customer would like ultra leather.
My questions are:
Should I just sand the door panels and glue the ultra leather on?
Should I use landau foam on the door panels then the ultra leather?
I have a couple choices of glue (I'll attach pictures ) do you have opinions on either one?
The customer would also like to cover (make flat) the vent lines on the bottom of the panel.
I'm sure I have many more questions but that's it for now
Thank you
P.s.
I'm in ontario canada.
The supliers I use are ennis and triden

[Cody]

I’m no expert, but I would think once you have the vent lines shaved and smooth, that you would just sand and glue like you stated. But I would wait for others input here lol.

[Susy]

@Cody
Thanks for the reply.
My concerns and issues with the vents are:
The customer wants the finished door panel to be flat without the vent lines. This means filing them with something? What is the best product to use? Or using something to cover them. Landau foam? Also, the vents are there for airflow to help with moisture between the door and panel. If I cover them would I have to make new unnoticeable cuts in the bottom of the panel to allow venting?
Ultra leather is very thin and unforgiving so anything I do has to be perfectly smooth.
If I was sure of an alternative vinyl to use I may be able to talk him into it.
Ultra leather only has a colour fastness of 60 hours. ...and he wants red...

[Cody]

@Susy working in the auto body field as my main income, I can tell you that door will rust with it without those vents in place lol. I’m only slightly kidding.

I would be afraid that over time if you just covered the vents with foam you’d eventually see a “ghost” line of the vents slowly coming through. It would be best to cut them out and use a 2 part adhesive like 3m or fusor. And glue in a piece of abs plastic and body work it smooth.

I would see if he’s stuck on that material as I’ve seen it turn pink in a short period. Is this a snow truck? Cause I’d be afraid in the lower part of the door, that’s where everyone uses their foot to help push the door open and will run quick. @John and some
Other my have a better material idea as I’ve never worked with the ultra leather just going by what I’ve seen.

One reason I said no foam was unless you get all the joints and corners sanded nice and smooth the factory will be the smoothest to wrap the material around. Again I’m just thinking out loud.

[Susy]

@Cody
Thanks.
Would you recommend putting some sort of backing on the panel (fiberglass? ). Then fill the front so it's smooth? Would you use regular car body filler? I feel that would be easier to stay with the same contour (but I'm guessing )
Would you alter the bottom that's not seen with some sort of air flow? I worry about moister build up.
The truck is a daily driver that will be shown.
The red ultra leather matched his paint that's why he picked it. What is your opinion on a type of vinyl that would work well to glue and stretch over the curves of the plastic panel? I'll just tell him that vinyl is not a good choice for the long term (he's pretty reasonable ).
Thank you so much for your help. I've done a lot of different upholstery things but have done or seen anyone do door panels. This is totally out of my comfort zone but I know I can do it. I just need that little extra help

[Cody]

I’m wrong, I was picturing Alcantara when you said ultra leather. I would think a good 4 way stretch vinyl would be good.

Fiberglass would work. Just have to let the area good to give it some bite. You don’t want to get the filler to thick but it should be good since it’ll be covered with the vinyl. Maybe you could add some marine seat vent/drain things to the bottom so it vents but is out of the way. Just an idea.

[Susy]

@Cody
I appreciate the time you are taking to help me.
The only 4 way stretch I know of is all sport. I am doing his seats as well and that vinyl won't work (I don't think it will look good).....
I'm not sure what is the best vinyl to work with on the door panels as well as the seats.
Is there a brand of vinyl you would suggest?

[John]

That will be a little difficult. The vents and slots will be very hard to wrap and make look nice. If you can delete them that would be the way to go.
-yes sand and clean the panel before gluing
-No dont use landau foam under.
- I would use the landau top contact cement.
-You might have to cut out clearance on the center pieces for the material thickness.
Here is a video that shows the process of warping plastic components. I hope this helps

[Susy]

Thanks @John
Would body filler work to fill the vents? I would put something on the back .
What's is your opinion on the best vinyl to use? I'm considering navigator or islander from the soft side collection. Is there a vinyl you feel would be better? Thanks

[John]

Yeah you can use body filler. That would be easiest and most cost effective. I would probably use kitty hair filler. Regular body filler will probably crack. Just be very careful installing and removing the panel not to crack the filler.

I wouldn't use ultra leather. For the price of ultra leather you might as well use real leather. As far as vinyl goes all the reputable brands are more than good enough for your application. I focus more on the color and feel of the vinyl and not much on the "best brand". The only time I work about a better vinyl is for high traffic commercial applications like medical equiptment or work trucks. In those cases youll want domething with high double rub rating like Naugahyde spirit millennium.

[Susy]

@John
Thanks. I really think he should keep the vents (they are there for a reason). I was thinking of cutting them out leaving a hole. Then use some sort of fancy speaker mesh behind? I have no idea what would work for that or how to attach it. I just have to bite the bullet and go for it. I'm over thinking things. If I can do this I'll be the only one in the area so it's important to me to get it right

[Cale]

Yes, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN that panel first or nothing will stick. Then lightly sand with a scotch bite pad and soapy water.
I would lay tape over the vents on the front of the panel and fill with either fiberglass or a 2 part plastic resin. If not, the lines will show through.

[Susy]

@Cale was just about to ask what would be best to clean it with. I had been thinking acetone or alcohol. I also need to do the door handle that is grimy

[IvanD]

Acetone is the best degreaser

[Susy]

One last question....Maybe. ..hopefully
What would you guys charge for this job?
I appreciate all the help and advice I've been given. I'm so happy I found this forum

[Cody]

I agree. I wouldn’t use body filler as the main filler of the vents. Unless you fiberglass cloth the front and back after. Eventually it’ll crack and fall out with door slams. It’ll be too thick. But encapsulating it will help with the cloth. If I were going to shave it, I’d take 40grit and give the vents some good tooth. (After being cleaned) then blow the vents out to remove dust. Using a towel will likely leave lint on the sanded plastic. Cover the back with masking tape. Get 3m tpo plastic repair 2 part and fill the vents slightly over fill them and use a plastic spreader of sort and smooth the 2 part out. Best to leave it a bit high. This stuff kicks over fast so be ready. Wait till the next day and sand it down smooth. For a longer drying time you could use 3m panel bond. I’ve done a lot of bumper repairs in my day. When they are bad and can’t be welded this is what works. Here’s an example of 2 bumpers from 2 different cars I used to make fit together to match the widened quarter panels of my Audi. Been a year and no cracks.




As far as pricing. I’m terrible at that, and seem to be in an area where prices are lower than average. Maybe other will help here too.

[scrapmycar]

Thankyou so much for giving such details and taking some time out for our help and guide
appreciated

[Cale]

When I do these plastic panels I tend to over clean them. I wash them by scrubbing them with soap and water, rinse twice with clean water and then after drying wipe them with some sort of either wax and grease remover or acetone. depending on how dirty the panel is this may be done more than once. It doesn't matter what material you fill the vents with but if you don't clean well NOTHING will stick. Even if sanded.

Note: Just sanding doesn't guarantee adhesion if it is not cleaned very well. When you sand a dirty panel you can actually embed silicone debris into the plastic panel causing adhesion problems down the road. Silicone is in many of the products used to make the panels shine and in cleaning them. Fillers, glues, primers, paints, etc do not work well with silica products and can cause many undesirable outcomes.

[Cale]

Another method that I thought of goes along with what @Cody mentioned. You could get another door panel, cut the area just above the vents on the donor panel and cut the vents on the used door panel and then plastic weld the in. That way you have all of the same material and leveling shouldn't leave any lines, cracks or visible signs of the job done.

[Susy]

@Cale
Thanks. I would have sanded first then cleaned.
It's pretty intimidating doing this job...something completely unknown for me but really exciting.
With everyone's help and advice I'm confident this will be perfect....